这就是NMN，也就是烟酰胺单核苷酸。

This is NMN, namely nicotinamide mononucleotide.

2002年，哈佛医学院遗传系终身教授David·A·Sinclair发现细胞在衰老过程中，一个叫做NAD+的成分起到了关键作用。NAD+是一种参与生物体内多种生理活动重要的辅酶，参与能量供应和DNA修复。然而NAD+随着年龄的增长，体内含量水平会逐年下降。

In 2002, David A. Sinclair, a tenured professor of genetics at Harvard Medical School, found that a component called NAD+plays a key role in cell aging. NAD+is an important coenzyme involved in a variety of physiological activities in the organism, which is involved in energy supply and DNA repair. However, with the growth of age, the level of NAD+in the body will decline year by year.

NAD+在体内的含量，每20年会减少50％

The content of NAD+in the body will decrease by 50% every 20 years

想要延缓衰老，提高身体内NAD+的水平就是关键。然而NAD+分子量较大，外源性的NAD+难以直接被人体吸收利用，但补充NAD+的各种前体性物质却可以不同程度的被吸收，在体内转化成NAD+。

To delay aging, improving the level of NAD+in the body is the key. However, the molecular weight of NAD+is large, and exogenous NAD+is difficult to be directly absorbed and utilized by the human body. However, various precursor substances that supplement NAD+can be absorbed to varying degrees and converted into NAD+in the body.

而NMN就是NAD+的关键前体之一。今年NMN就通过了药监局的化妆品新原料的备案申请，市面上迅速有不少公司跟进了相关产品的研发，涌向这片蓝海。

NMN is one of the key precursors of NAD+. This year, NMN passed the registration application for new cosmetics raw materials of the Drug Administration, and many companies on the market quickly followed up the research and development of related products, flocking to this blue ocean.

那么，这款神奇成分应用在护肤品中时，也能让肌肤延缓衰老、焕发新生吗？我们就从NMN本身的作用机制出发，看看我们该不该为了这类肤护品一掷千金。

So, when this magic ingredient is used in skin care products, can it also delay aging and rejuvenate the skin? Let's start from the mechanism of NMN itself to see whether we should spend a lot of money for such skin care products.

01

01

NMN是怎样延缓衰老的？

How does NMN delay aging?

在哺乳动物体内，NMN由烟酰胺在Nampt的催化下生成，随后NMN在Nmnat的催化下生成NAD+，从而激活NAD+底物依赖性酶Sirt1(俗称长寿蛋白)、调节细胞存活和死亡、维持氧化还原状态，发挥抗衰效果。

In mammals, NMN is generated by nicotinamide under the catalysis of Nampt, and then NMN generates NAD+under the catalysis of Nmnat, thus activating the NAD+substrate-dependent enzyme Sirt1 (commonly known as longevity protein), regulating cell survival and death, maintaining redox status, and exerting anti-aging effect.

NMN在体内转化为NAD+的流程

The process of converting NMN into NAD+in vivo

目前学界里关于NMN的抗衰研究，绝大多数都是动物实验与体外试验。它在动物实验里抗衰效果非常好。

At present, most of the anti-aging studies of NMN in the academic circle are animal experiments and in vitro experiments. It has a very good anti-aging effect in animal experiments.

比如下面这篇发表在细胞生物学领域影响因子排第三的Cell Metabolism的文章里，服用NMN可以有效减轻小鼠与年龄相关的生理衰退：如抑制与年龄相关的体重增加、增强能量代谢、促进体力活动、改善胰岛素敏感性和血浆脂质谱，并改善眼功能等。

For example, in the following article published in Cell Metabolism, the third influential factor in the field of cell biology, taking NMN can effectively reduce the age-related physiological decline of mice, such as inhibiting age-related weight gain, enhancing energy metabolism, promoting physical activity, improving insulin sensitivity and plasma lipid mass spectrometry, and improving eye function.

而在一个生产NMN的厂家，邦泰生物申请的专利里，在小鼠饮食中加入NMN居然真的可以延长它们的寿命，延长了大约29%。

In a patent application filed by Bangtai Biology, a manufacturer of NMN, adding NMN to the diet of mice can actually prolong their life span by about 29%.

动物实验的成果已经令无数科学家欣喜，那么如果涉及人体口服，NMN的临床数据又是如何呢？

The results of animal experiments have delighted countless scientists. What about the clinical data of NMN when it comes to human oral administration?

在这篇尚未正式发表的东京大学的科研人员进行的研究里，健康老年受试者口服250mg的NMN或者安慰剂12周。

In this study conducted by researchers at the University of Tokyo, which has not been officially published, healthy elderly subjects took 250mg of NMN or placebo orally for 12 weeks.

12周后，NMN显著增加了血液中的NAD+和NAD+代谢产物的水平。 且显著改善了部分肌肉的强度和部分运动能力，比如步态速度、左手握力等，以及右耳听力。

After 12 weeks, NMN significantly increased the levels of NAD+and NAD+metabolites in the blood. It also significantly improved the strength of some muscles and some sports abilities, such as gait speed, left hand grip strength, and right ear hearing.

虽然没有在小鼠上的数据亮眼，人体临床实验也显示了NMN的作用。为此在国外市场上可以看到很多的NMN口服保健品，电商平台也可以搜的到。

Although there is no obvious data in mice, human clinical experiments also show the role of NMN. For this reason, many NMN oral health products can be found in foreign markets, and can also be found on e-commerce platforms.

一些广告夸张的把NMN宣传成了“不老药”、“预防老年痴呆”“修复DNA”，还被我们国家明令禁止过。

Some advertisements exaggerate the promotion of NMN as "anti-aging medicine", "prevention of Alzheimer's disease" and "repair of DNA", which has also been explicitly prohibited by our country.

不过，截止到目前，NMN和NAD+的临床研究还相对不足，抗衰老、DNA修复等功效及机理尚未大规模临床应用于人类身上，所以实际应用的效果还需要进一步研究。

However, up to now, the clinical research of NMN and NAD+is still relatively insufficient, and the efficacy and mechanism of anti-aging and DNA repair have not yet been applied to humans on a large scale, so the effect of practical application needs further study.

02

02

NMN作为化妆品原料，靠谱吗？

Is NMN reliable as a cosmetic raw material?

那么将NMN作为化妆品原料被使用时，会给我们带来什么样的惊喜？

So what kind of surprise will NMN bring us when it is used as a cosmetic raw material?

今年1月24日，一款名为“β-烟酰胺单核苷酸”，也就是NMN的化妆品新原料悄悄备案完成，进入了监测期状态。 无独有偶，两个多月后，另一家名为康盈红莓公司的β-烟酰胺单核苷酸也于3月29日申请备案。

On January 24th this year, a model called“ β- Nicotinamide mononucleotides ", that is, NMN's new cosmetics raw materials have been quietly filed and entered the monitoring period. Coincidentally, more than two months later, another β- Nicotinamide mononucleotides also applied for filing on March 29.

此前，日本DHC的研究表明皮肤中NAD+的含量稳定时，可以预防紫外线照射对于角质形成细胞伤害，有助于预防和治疗皮肤光老化。

Previously, Japanese DHC research showed that when the content of NAD+in the skin is stable, it can prevent the damage of ultraviolet radiation to keratinocytes and help prevent and treat skin photoaging.

而再看NMN相关的专利，根据余姚莱孚斯本备案的NMN的技术要求资料，该公司生产的NMN原料的使用目的是作皮肤保护剂、保湿剂、抗氧化剂，最大使用浓度3%。

And then look at the patents related to NMN. According to the technical requirements of NMN filed by Yuyao Raffles, the NMN raw materials produced by the company are used as skin protectants, humectants and antioxidants, with a maximum use concentration of 3%.

而另一个备案NMN的康盈红莓的技术要求资料里，NMN的原料使用目的则是皮肤保护剂、保湿剂，最大使用浓度10%。

In another technical requirement of Kangying cranberry filed with NMN, NMN's raw materials are used for skin protectants and humectants, with a maximum concentration of 10%.

如此看来，NMN在化妆品里将做皮肤保护剂、抗氧化剂、保湿剂使用。

So NMN will be used as skin protector, antioxidant and humectant in cosmetics.

此外，国内一个生产NMN的生产厂家邦泰生物申请了含NMN的护肤品组合物抗衰专利 专利里将含10%NMN的护肤品分别提供给老年(60岁左右)、中年(45岁左右)、青年(25岁左右)共三组(每组10人)试用2个月。

In addition, a domestic manufacturer of NMN, Bangtai Biological, applied for the anti-aging patent of the skin care product composition containing NMN, and provided the skin care product containing 10% NMN to the elderly (about 60 years old), middle-aged (about 45 years old), and young (about 25 years old) for a trial period of 2 months in three groups (10 people in each group).

每天早晚各用一次。一周后涂抹部位皮肤明显白嫩、滋润度増加：

Use it every morning and evening. After one week, the skin at the application site is obviously white and tender, with increased moisture:

其中青年组中5位受试者原有的长痘症状明显缓和,4人于两个月后症状消失;中年组中7人皮肤皱纹显著减淡;老年组中6人色斑明显减淡,皱纹和皮肤松弛现象得到改善。

Among them, the original acne symptoms of 5 subjects in the youth group were significantly relieved, and the symptoms of 4 subjects disappeared after two months; The skin wrinkles of 7 people in the middle age group were significantly reduced; In the elderly group, 6 people's color spots were significantly reduced, and wrinkles and skin relaxation were improved.

好像效果还可以？我们再来看看应用在产品时,值不值得购买：

It seems that the effect is OK? Let's see if it is worth buying when it is applied to products:

03

03

实际应用在护肤品中，NMN真的有用吗？

Is NMN really useful in skin care products?

随手搜一搜以NMN原料为主打的护肤品，就能查到一些十分昂贵的产品。比如下面这款面膜，599元竟然只有5片...

A casual search of skin care products with NMN raw materials as the main ingredient can find some very expensive products. For example, the following facial mask costs 599 yuan and only 5 pieces

嘶...这价格...着实让人捏一把冷汗。不过，如果真的能实现它宣称的功效也不是不能一掷千金。

Hiss The price It's really a cold sweat. However, if it can really achieve its claimed efficacy, it is not impossible to spend a lot of money.

然而，在我们采访了目前在国内研究NMN的前沿团队负责人，陕西师范大学的柴永海教授时得到了一个比较客观的答案：目前，NMN在化妆品中的使用效果，还需要更多的数据来进一步支持。

However, when we interviewed Professor Chai Yonghai of Shaanxi Normal University, the head of the leading team of NMN research in China, we got a relatively objective answer: At present, the use effect of NMN in cosmetics still needs more data to further support.

我们要从多个因素来考虑NMN在化妆品中的使用：

We should consider the use of NMN in cosmetics from several factors:

01 NMN透皮吸收的生物利用度，目前还需要进一步的研究。

The bioavailability of NMN transdermal absorption still needs further study.

NMN目前作为抗衰老的明星分子，近些年来得到广泛的研究。对于NMN在皮肤领域的应用，也开始吸引了研究者的兴趣。但目前鲜少有NMN护肤人体临床数据的文献报道。虽然在人体内NMN可以转换成NAD+，但外用NMN能否在皮肤细胞内转换为NAD+，或者说NMN在皮肤外用的作用是否需要通过转换为NAD+来起作用，需要科研研究来进一步证实。另外，NMN的透皮吸收机制以及其生物利用度，也是要实现NMN在化妆品中应用前需要研究清楚的。虽然目前有前沿的专家已经开始着手人体临床和经皮吸收方面的研究，但外用NMN护肤究竟效果如何，还是需要更多数据和时间的支持。

As a star molecule of anti-aging, NMN has been widely studied in recent years. The application of NMN in the field of skin also began to attract researchers' interest. However, there are few literature reports on clinical data of NMN skin care. Although NMN can be converted into NAD+in human body, whether external NMN can be converted into NAD+in skin cells, or whether the effect of NMN for external use in skin needs to be further confirmed by scientific research. In addition, the transdermal absorption mechanism of NMN and its bioavailability need to be clearly studied before the application of NMN in cosmetics. Although some leading experts have begun to study human clinical and percutaneous absorption, more data and time are needed to support the effect of external NMN skin care.

02 NMN是个极性大的分子，在水中溶解度大，但在油脂及其他非极性的溶剂中溶解度小。

02 NMN is a highly polar molecule with high solubility in water, but low solubility in oil and other non-polar solvents.

NMN是个极性非常大的小分子，易溶于水，难溶于大部分的油脂和非极性溶剂中。所以要实现NMN高浓度添加于面霜中，具有很大的难度。而低添加量的NMN又难以发挥作用。抛开剂量，就无法谈功效，所以要当心市面上出现NMN的“概念性”添加现象。

NMN is a small molecule with very large polarity, which is easy to dissolve in water, but difficult to dissolve in most oils and non-polar solvents. Therefore, it is very difficult to achieve high concentration of NMN added to face cream. However, NMN with low addition is difficult to play its role. Regardless of the dose, we cannot talk about the efficacy, so we should be careful of the "conceptual" addition of NMN on the market.

03 NMN具有热不稳定性及酸不稳定性，因此对配方的酸碱性要求比较高。

03 NMN has thermal instability and acid instability, so it has high requirements on the acidity and alkalinity of the formula.

NMN是β-烟酰胺单核苷酸，pH值在3～4之间，具有热不稳定及酸不稳定特性。在酸性条件下，NMN容易被水解为烟酰胺。适当的pH值是NMN保持相对稳定的重要条件。因此，在添加NMN的产品中，是需要严格控制好产品的酸碱性。进一步来讲，合适的pH值，也是开发适合人体护肤品的重要前提。

NMN is β- Nicotinamide mononucleotide, with pH value between 3 and 4, has the characteristics of thermal instability and acid instability. Under acidic conditions, NMN is easily hydrolyzed to nicotinamide. Proper pH value is an important condition for NMN to maintain relative stability. Therefore, it is necessary to strictly control the acidity and alkalinity of products added with NMN. Furthermore, proper pH value is also an important prerequisite for developing skin care products suitable for human body.

04 NMN原料的纯度，对于以NMN为主要功效成分的化妆品效果具有重要的影响。

04 The purity of NMN raw material has an important impact on the effect of cosmetics with NMN as the main functional ingredient.

所以，以NMN为核心的产品需要保证其原料的纯度和浓度，以防出现以次充好概念性添加的现象。

Therefore, products with NMN as the core need to ensure the purity and concentration of their raw materials to prevent the phenomenon of substandard conceptual addition.

05 添加NMN的产品，NMN货架期的稳定性是核心问题。

05 For products added with NMN, the stability of NMN shelf life is the core issue.

由于NMN相对来说不稳定，如果配方不当或保存不当，是有可能在到达消费者手中前失活的。

Because NMN is relatively unstable, if it is improperly formulated or stored, it may be inactivated before reaching consumers.

END

END

无论是国外还是国内，目前直接使用了NMN的品牌很少，而且配方的有效型还比较可疑，目前整体来看还是概念性大于功效。

At present, there are few brands directly using NMN both at home and abroad, and the effective type of the formula is still doubtful. At present, the concept is still more than the efficacy.

不过，我们文章开头提到的能延缓衰老的NAD+，还是有办法通过护肤品提升含量的。最近护肤品里已有一个专门开发出来提高皮肤内NAD+含量的好成分——肉豆蔻醇烟酸酯。

However, the NAD+mentioned at the beginning of our article that can delay aging can still be improved by skin care products. Recently, there has been a good ingredient specially developed in skin care products to increase the content of NAD+in the skin - myristyl nicotinate.